A full breakdown of my journey to Brazil as a woman solo traveling
This is a recap of my time in Brazil, traveling alone as a woman. One month sounded like a long time, yet it went by so quickly. Here’s what I learned and what I want to share with you. Whether it’s hostels, cafés, or activities, here are my honest reviews.
I am 21 years old, a women and from Germany. Everyone I told that I was going to travel to Rio de Janeiro by myself definitely looked at me like I was crazy.
"But it’s so dangerous."
"Aren’t you scared?"
"Yes, that I won’t find friends and end up alone," I answered.
Yes, that was actually my biggest fear—that I would be bored and alone.
In this blog, I want to share my experience of traveling through Brazil by myself, break down the best food spots, sightseeing, hostels, and tips on how to come back home with your phone still in your pocket. Because damn, still having your phone after that is a big flex.
I always had this feeling that I needed to go to Rio. The attraction I felt towards this place and the emotions I got every time I saw videos of its breathtaking beaches felt like a sign. I’m someone who follows those feelings, so I started researching flights, planning everything, and finally, I booked my ticket to Rio, during Carnival, one of the busiest times of the year to visit. That´s in february.
But it is absolutely worth it. Especially during this time, it’s summer in Rio, so I managed to escape the German winter and experience the best month of summer I have ever had.
The first day was already crazy.
On my first night, I met more people from my room, and my first night in Rio felt like a movie.
Exploring the streets of Botafogo with people who were complete strangers to me at that point was such a vibe. No other city could compare to the energy you feel when you walk through those streets.
My Top 6 Hostels in & Around Rio de Janeiro
During those 31 days, I stayed in six hostels and I can recommend every single one of them. Before and after Carnival, prices for a bed in a shared dorm usually range between €16 and €40 per night.
1. Ipanema Beach Hostel
Located right at Ipanema Beach and the most social hostel you will ever stay in.
It’s the perfect place to start your trip. The staff are the loveliest people, and you can simply walk across the street to More Ipanema. It has the same owner, the same social atmosphere, and you´re in a whatsapp group with all guest together. They post activities you can join in the group everyday.
That means even more opportunities to make friends. There is security at the entrance and free caipirinhas during happy hour.
2. Chez Zany
Affordable private rooms as well as dorms. The most aesthetic hostel I stayed at. It’s located near Copacabana Beach. The area is relatively safe, but I would still recommend taking an Uber from there to get around. The hostel and entrance are secured with a code, and they even have a cat. There is a kitchen and chill area with lots of books.
3. Aquario Hostel – Ilha Grande
If you think about doing a trip to the Island Ilha Grande near Rio, this is the hostel I stayed in. Most beautiful view I have ever had, when I walked out of my room. There are hammocks, a sushi restaurant, it's very affordable, a quiet place, and there’s a party right next door if you don´t want the quiet. It’s directly on the beach and not far from the harbour.
4. Longboard Surf Paradise- Recreio dos Bandeirantes
A very special place. Kind staff, the surf instructors and the reception team were always so helpful. There’s a kitchen where you can cook your own meals, you can book surf lessons, and it’s simply a place where you can completely switch off from everything. The price is unbeatable.
6. Pura Vida Hostel
One of my absolute favourite hostels. The staff are amazing, there’s a huge common area with a bar, kitchen, and plenty of spaces to hang out. This hostel has so much character, and you instantly feel comfortable.
My bed was right next to the window above where the parties happen, so if you're a light sleeper, you might want to choose another hostel. For me, it was completely fine.
It’s also located at the entrance of a favela, but that shouldn’t scare anyone. I still felt safe there. And it's only a five-minute walk to Copacabana Beach.
7. Castelo dos Tucanos
The most beautiful hostel I have ever stayed in. I will definitely come back one day.
Imagine living in a huge villa together with people from all over the world—that’s exactly what Castelo dos Tucanos feels like. It has a pool, a massive common area, beautiful old architecture, and you literally brush your teeth while looking at Christ the Redeemer. Free breakfast everyday, as much as you like
Transport, Safety & Hostels
Before going to Rio, I of course did my research about what I had to see, what I should pay attention to, and I planned quite a few things. Looking back, I would do it exactly the same way again.
Some hostels I only booked while I was already there, while others, like Pura Vida during Carnival, should definitely be booked several weeks or even months in advance. Many people I met shared Airbnbs, which can actually be much cheaper.
When you arrive in Rio, even getting from the airport to your hostel can feel overwhelming because there are hundreds of taxi companies trying to talk to you and convince you to take their taxi.
Just keep walking straight ahead. About five minutes away, clearly signposted, you'll find the official Uber pick-up area where your Uber, that you book with the app, will collect you.
In general, I would recommend using Uber a lot in Rio. Especially in Centro, I wouldn't walk around on my own. In my opinion, it was the most dangerous part of the city. Even in areas like Copacabana, I would always take an Uber at night.
At some point I switched almost completely to Uber Moto. However, I would still recommend using a regular Uber car at night, as robberies and other incidents can happen. During the day, Uber Moto was never a problem for me. I used both a lot, especially during Carnival, when traffic is terrible and the motorbike easily gets around it.
The rides are definitely cheaper, and a 10-minute ride only costs a few euros.
Your Social Hub in Rio
During my stay in Rio, one hostel kept coming up in conversations: More Ipanema. It's probably one of the first hostels you'll find on Hostelworld.
It belongs together with Leblon Beach Hostel and Ipanema Beach Hostel, where I stayed.
Basically, it felt like I had booked two hostels because some days we would hang out over there, while on other days more people came to hang out in front of our door.
All I can say is that this hostel is absolutely worth it as a starting point. Every day there are several free activities you can join, everyone is incredibly open, and everyone is ready to party. I instantly became part of the group, and on my very first evening we already went out partying with people I had literally just met.
I still remember everyone standing outside, slightly drunk, drinking those capirinhas with way too much rum and way too much sugar.
Every five minutes you would hear:
"Where are you from?"
"How long have you been travelling?"
I absolutely love it.
Activities in Rio
Rio offers endless possibilities when it comes to activities. Whether you're more of a party person or someone who loves history, architecture, and sightseeing, there's something for everyone. I can definitely recommend a great mix of both.
Most of the activities I did were organized together with people from my hostel,. You'll naturally meet travelers who usually want to do the same things as you, making it easy to explore the city, join tours, head to the beach, or experience Rio's nightlife together.
Feira da Glória
Feira da Glória is one of the most well-known and traditional street markets in Rio de Janeiro. It takes place every Sunday in the Glória district and has everything from souvenirs and traditional food to clothes. It's also the perfect place to buy your first Brazilian bikinis and T-shirts.
Beach Day at Ipanema Beach
Probably one of the best things you can do in Rio is simply spend the day at the famous Ipanema Beach.
And most importantly, make sure you try all the food. Locals and street vendors walk along the beach selling traditional Brazilian food. You can even pay by card. In fact, I didn't need cash a single time during my entire stay in Brazil because you can literally pay for everything with your card.
Just make sure to always check the price on the card reader before paying so you don't get ripped off. Prices are sometimes adjusted depending on whether you look like a gringa/gringo or a local, but overall I always thought the prices were completely fair.
Definitely try the grilled cheese, meat skewers, buttered corn, fresh coconuts, and caipirinhas.
There were so many days where I sat on this beach with people I had just met, drinking my coconut, looking at the ocean, and thinking:
"Life is actually so damn good."
Christ the Redeemer
Well, if you're already in Rio, you obviously have to see Christ the Redeemer.
However, I would definitely recommend going very early in the morning and avoiding it during Carnival if possible, because getting up there requires a lot of patience.
First, you wait in line. Then you take the small tram up the mountain, and after that, you still have to climb quite a few stairs.
There are simply too many people.
Taking a picture without hundreds of people in the background is almost impossible.
The view from the top is still incredible, both over the city and of Christ the Redeemer itself, but it's definitely one of those places where tourists from all over the world meet, and afterwards you're kind of happy that you've ticked it off your list.
Pedra do Sal
Absolutely incredible, but also a complete fever dream.
Pedra do Sal is a historic square in the Saúde district near the harbour of Rio de Janeiro and is considered one of the birthplaces of urban samba.
The famous "Pedra do Sal Party" isn't a normal club party at all. It's a huge, free samba gathering in the streets.
We were all so excited to go because literally everyone talked about it like it was the best party in Rio.
If you have claustrophobia, this place is definitely not for you. The moment you walk through the entrance, you're swallowed by a sea of people. There are stalls everywhere selling drinks, food, and everything else. Music is coming from every direction, people are dancing, talking, laughing, and once you've fought your way through the long walkway, you finally arrive at the main square.
The musicians sit at the bottom of a historic stone staircase, playing traditional roda de samba, while the entire square is completely packed with people. There's also this huge slope where everyone somehow manages to stand, dance, and party at the same time. I still have no idea how.
The biggest achievement of the night was honestly surviving the whole thing in flip-flops.
This party is exactly how I imagine Brazil. Wild, loud, chaotic. But that's exactly what I love about Brazil.
It's definitely a place that attracts lots of tourists, but despite that, it still felt incredibly authentic. I honestly have no idea how my friends managed to keep their phones, because they took so many videos that night. I also took the occasional picture or short video, but Pedra do Sal is probably the place where gangs make most of their money by stealing phones from people's pockets or even snatching them straight out of their hands.
Enjoy the party.
Just keep your phone in your pocket.
Hike and Party at Sugar Loaf Mountain
For a really good view i recommend hiking up to Morro da Urca for the sunset party. The hike takes around 30–45 minutes, and at the top you'll find a DJ playing house, lounge, and electronic music while everyone enjoys the sunset over the city.
The event is free, but it doesn't take place every day. The dates are announced monthly, with several sunset sessions usually happening each month. If the hiking trail is open, you can attend without buying a cable car ticket. You only need a ticket if you want to continue up to the summit of Sugarloaf Mountain by cable car. And yes, if you do the hike, you'll arrive much sweatier and more exhausted than the people who take the cable car, but also a lot sportier.
The view is absolutely insane, and the music was nice too. But as you can probably imagine, it's not really the kind of event I would go to if I actually wanted to dance.
About 80% of the people had their phones out the entire time trying to get the perfect picture of the view.
The funniest part was actually hiking back down after sunset.
Walking through the jungle in complete darkness definitely feels like a proper adventure.
Although before you start the hike, you actually have to sign a form saying that you're taking responsibility for yourself if you happen to die on the way down...
Perfect.
Santa Teresa Stairs
They are located in one of Rio’s most artistic neighborhoods and are famous for their colorful mosaic tiles. It can get quite crowded, but they are absolutely worth seeing.
While you're there, make sure to explore the Santa Teresa neighborhood itself. With its artistic atmosphere, charming streets, and unique character, it’s a wonderful place to wander around and experience a different side of Rio.
Those were my favourite things that I did, but there is still so much more to see, like hiking Dois Irmãos or many other places. And for sporty people besides hiking: surfing. But I´ll come to that part later.
One topic that was discussed a lot was favela tours.
In Rio, I noticed that people had very divided opinions about them.
One side supported them, saying you learn a lot about the culture, the locals earn money from tourism, there’s a lot to see, and it’s an interesting experience.
The other side viewed them much more critically.
I also felt conflicted. On the one hand, it made me uncomfortable walking through someone's neighbourhood as if it were some kind of attraction. But in the end I went to a favela party. Click here to see my full thoughts about going in a favela, in rio de janeiro.
My favourite Cafés
The Slow Bakery
A beautiful café with an amazing atmosphere and a really nice interior. I had some good bread there, and it’s the perfect place to slow down, relax, and take a break from the busy city.
Musa Café
Located in a great spot in Ipanema, Musa Café offers a great selection of brunch options. It’s a really cute place to sit, enjoy your food, and watch the neighborhood around you.
The Coffee
With several locations across Rio, The Coffee is perfect for a quick stop to grab a coffee or matcha. Definitely try their cookies—they are so yummy.
Ilha Grande – Four Days of Paradise
Just a few hours from Rio lies Ilha Grande, a breathtaking little island with no cars, no traffic, and an atmosphere that immediately slows life down. It is surrounded by untouched nature, secluded beaches, and lush rainforest. Despite its peaceful vibe, you’ll never feel lonely unless that’s exactly what you’re looking for. Like almost everywhere during my trip, I met other backpackers in my hostel and had an unforgettable time.
How to get there
Booking transportation to and from Ilha Grande is surprisingly easy. You can even arrange it just one day before your trip. Simply search for "Ilha Grande transfer", and you'll find plenty of options through GetYourGuide and other local providers.
I chose a shuttle bus that picked people up all across Rio. You simply enter your preferred pickup location, the bus collects everyone, and then continues to the harbor, where you take the ferry to the island.
The entire journey from Rio to Ilha Grande takes around 4–5 hours and costs approximately €40.
Getting back, however, was a different story.
Instead of booking my return transfer the evening before, I waited until the day I wanted to leave and spent hours walking from one travel agency to another on the island, desperately trying to find a ride back to Rio.
Eventually, I made it, but I honestly spent the entire day stressed about transportation instead of enjoying my final hours on the island.
My advice: Book your return transfer at least one or two days in advance. Learn from my mistake.
Aquário Hostel – Waking Up by the Ocean
I stayed at Aquário Hostel, which was absolutely perfect.
It's located right on the waterfront, only about a 15-minute walk from the harbor.
Every morning, I opened my door and found myself just a few steps away from the ocean. There was a hammock waiting outside, the beach promenade stretched out in front of me, and fishing boats gently rocked back and forth on the calm water.
It honestly felt like waking up inside a postcard.
Next door is Che Lagarto Hostel, which hosts parties almost every evening. Also Aquário usually organizes one itself.
After spending ten days partying in Rio, I arrived on Ilha Grande feeling exhausted and slightly sick. I checked into the hostel expecting four relaxing days. While showing me around, the reception casually said,
"Oh, by the way, we're having a party tonight."
As someone who almost never says no to a party—but had actually come to escape exactly that—I just smiled, took my room key…
…and somehow found myself dancing at the party five hours later.
Some habits are hard to break.
Vila do Abraão – The Heart of the Island
Ilha Grande itself is relatively small.
The main village, Vila do Abraão, is located right by the harbor. It's full of little boutiques selling bikinis, beachwear, handmade souvenirs, and local crafts. There are small food markets, cozy cafés, and plenty of tour agencies offering boat trips around the island.
Restaurants line the beach, although prices are a little higher than on the mainland.
One thing I loved about Ilha Grande was how peaceful everything felt. Instead of huge luxury resorts, you'll mostly find charming guesthouses, hostels, and small hotels that blend naturally into the surroundings.
A Private Boat Tour Around the Island
Like many visitors, we joined a private boat tour that stopped at several of the island's highlights. A big attraction for many is Gruta do Acaiá, a stunning sea cave where crystal-clear water reflects sunlight in an incredible blue glow, creating one of the island's most unique natural spectacles.
I have to admit, though, that it wasn't entirely my thing.
Climbing down the narrow stairs into the cave was adventurous, but definitely not comfortable. You have to crawl close to the water, you'll probably get dirty, and without a flashlight you can barely see anything. If you're claustrophobic, this experience is definitely not for you. For me personally, it wasn't something I absolutely needed to do.
The rest of the boat tour, however, was incredible.
We stopped at two deserted beaches, felt the salty sea breeze on our faces, jumped into crystal-clear water, and spent hours simply looking out across the endless ocean.
Those are the moments I'll remember most.
New perspectives
While I was on Ilha Grande, I actually spent almost all my time with Israelis.
I shared my hostel room with another girl, and although it was a six-bed dorm, we had the whole room to ourselves for all four days.
She quickly welcomed me into her group. February is one of the times when thousands of young Israelis travel through South America after completing their mandatory military service.
It was something completely new for me to spend time with people like that. The Israelis are all incredibly beautiful, funny and confident.
My new roomie told me a lot about her time in the army. She was 21, just like me, but she told me things that definitely weren't part of my normal life at 21. She talked about operations, handling weapons, and being responsible in charge of her own unit. She showed me cool photos from her time there, pictures of training with rifles, group photos in uniform, and even helicopter operations.
Even though it all seemed pretty cool at first, she also told me that it was the hardest time of her life. I believed her.
Thousands of young Israelis travel through South America after their mandatory military service
Many of them spend up to six months traveling, some even longer, using all the money they have saved.
One thing I also noticed was that they mostly stay among themselves. There are countless WhatsApp groups where they all connect with each other.
During the boat tour, I found myself in a group of Israelis because Omer took me everywhere with her. Most of the time I understood absolutely nothing because, of course, everyone spoke Hebrew. In my opinion, it really doesn't sound like any other language.
But those four days with her enriched me so much. She was one of the most loving and kind people I met during my trip. We talked a lot about our cultures, politics, our countries, shared our languages, and also spoke about our jobs and experiences.
It made me sad when she told me, that even while travelling she is sometimes afraid to tell people that she is from Israel. It made me realize how much war and hatred still affect their lives and how many difficult things she has experienced.
I left the island with so much more knowledge and awareness because I had gained a new insight into another culture—and that's exactly what travelling is all about for me.
Why You Should Visit Ilha Grande
Ilha Grande is the perfect place to slow down for a few days.
Whether you want to relax in nature, hike through the rainforest, snorkel in crystal-clear water, join boat tours, or meet other backpackers and enjoy the occasional party—you'll find it all here.
I never expected to stay in a hostel with direct access to the ocean and my own hammock for such an affordable price.
But once again, Brazil showed me that happiness doesn't always come from luxury.
Sometimes it's simply waking up five meters from the sea, listening to the waves, and realizing that life can be beautifully simple.
Surfing at Recreio dos Bandeirantes
From Ilha Grande, I made my way back to Rio on a bus full of Argentinians who spent the entire three-hour ride singing Spanish bangers at the top of their lungs. I was sitting at the front, absolutely scaring for my life, because I did not trust the bus driver at all. On the way, several times we got dangerously close to the cars in front of us and beside us.
The drive in usual crazy here. From Rio, I booked an Uber to my hostel. Especially when it's late at night and you're standing outside alone with your phone, I would also recommend never making it obvious. The Argentinians kindly invited me to wait inside their hotel, so I booked my Uber from there and only left the lobby once my car was almost there. Small tips that seem simple at first, but they can make a huge difference for your safety!
Recreio dos Bandeirantes was exactly the mix of sportiness and relaxation that I needed. Every day, I booked a surf lesson at 8 a.m., walked to the beach with the surf group and our instructors, had breakfast afterwards, and then spent the rest of the day just chilling.
Recreio dos Bandeirantes is a small coastal neighbourhood on the western side of Rio de Janeiro that feels much more local than the famous tourist hotspots like Copacabana or Ipanema. Life moves a little slower here, and you get a glimpse of what everyday life by the beach looks like for many Cariocas. Instead of crowds of tourists, you'll mostly find surfers, families, and locals enjoying the coastline.
The waves can get surprisingly big on some days, making it a great place to improve your surfing but also one where you definitely need to respect the ocean. By the afternoon, the water fills up with locals heading out for a surf after work, creating a really cool atmosphere.
Longboard Paradise Surf Hostel
The Longboard Paradise Surf Hostel is a really special place, even though the area around it isn't particularly spectacular. But it has amazing beaches, and it truly is a surfer's paradise. It's a big house right by the ocean, and both the front and the back are filled with surfboards and longboards in every size and colour. You can either rent one at your own risk and go out to practise by yourself or join one of the surf lessons. There are several time slots in the morning and at midday, which is super practical.
The lessons are usually in groups of no more than ten people, with almost as many surf instructors. I learned so much there and definitely improved my surfing.
Surf, Socialise, Repeat
As I said, if you spend five days there like I did, you have to be aware that apart from surfing and socialising, there isn't all that much to do. Around the corner, there's a cool bar with live music, plus some shops and local restaurants.
I really managed to slow down there. I cooked for the first time after two weeks, met some lovely people, and everyone was, of course, talking about the upcoming Carnival. Generally speaking, during my first two or three weeks, I met so many people who had all come here for exactly that.
I exchanged many phone numbers and Instagram accounts. Everyone is so open and genuinely happy to connect. My time at Longboard Paradise Surf Hostel was truly amazing, and once again, it taught me new things.
Next Stop: Carnival
Time really flies. Constantly meeting new people, but also saying so many "see you soon" and "goodbye." Eventually, it was time for me to head back to Rio for the highlight of the year: Carnival.
But that week definitely deserves its own blog post. You can read all about it here:
What Solo travelling taught me
Rio really was an experience like no other city. It felt like an endless summer. 35 degrees, streets and cities full of people, and so many different nationalities coming together in one place. I was completely fascinated by this energy, this feeling of lightness.
I enjoyed every single moment I spent with these people. I absorbed everything and tried to hold on to every little memory. I was truly living in the moment. I wasn’t thinking too much about the past or the future. I was just there.
I have had so many moments here where I just stopped and enjoyed what was happening. So often I had this thought: You have to remember this exact moment. You have to take this in.
Solo traveling often doesn´t mean, that your solo, sometimes the opposite happens. When I checked into Chez Zany, my only time, when I had a private room, for 4 days, I suddenly found myself standing in this empty room and feeling completely alone. Before, I was always surrounded by others.That was the moment when I really realized: wow, I am actually here by myself. I could always go to people whenever I wanted.
No matter what happens, I will always be the one person I can rely on 100 percent. I will always have myself. And that is why it is so important to love yourself, accept yourself, and appreciate yourself.
I think this trip is teaching me a lot about the self-love I need to embrace. It is teaching me that I can be alone, that I need to be able to handle being with myself in any situation. I came here alone, and constantly the people around me change. I am always adapting to new surroundings, new personalities, and new situations.
Of course, I also let myself be influenced by other people’s plans and join others for certain things. But I would still say that, most of the time, I follow my own path and do what feels right for me. I am learning that, at the end of the day, I am the answer to everything.
The Beauty of Impermanence
Every time I was outside, surfing, with the waves around me, the sun on my skin, and the wind in my ears, I tried to fully absorb that moment. Every single time, I had this thought: you will probably never experience this exact moment again.
You start thinking about the idea of impermanence. Everything is temporary. And somehow, that is something that can be scary, because it is so difficult to truly understand. Life itself is temporary.
Around me were locals catching one wave after another, while I was there, slowly paddling out and trying to improve.
But I was so happy. This is your moment. You will never be able to fully capture it. The only place where you can truly keep it is inside your head and your heart.
And the more time passes, the more these moments become part of you, because every new experience that comes into your life also takes a place in your heart. It is the same when you go out at night. You enjoy that exact moment. You move to the music right now. You feel it right now. You watch the sunset at Ipanema Beach right now. How many times have I just thought:
Wow. This is my life right now.
On one hand, you want to capture this one perfect moment forever. But then you realize that soon you will already be somewhere else again. One moment follows another. You open yourself up to the next experiences, the next places, the next people. Life just keeps moving forward all the time. It is honestly so crazy, and it has been something I have been thinking about a lot.
I really want to learn how to surf properly. The last surf lesson at the hostel was such a huge success for me. I was out there with a ridiculously heavy longboard, and I still managed to do it. I caught so many waves.
The days before that were much harder. Especially my surf instructors had to keep motivating me because I was really frustrated during the first lessons.
It is so interesting to think about how the locals here live this life every single day — and they love it. They don’t want anything else. They don’t need much to be happy. And somehow that is such a fascinating thing.
It also reminds me of my work at my bar. The customers change constantly. Of course, we have regular guests, but every week there are new faces. And here it is similar.
Every week new travelers arrive. Every week they meet new people. Every week they hear new stories. And still, they make every single person feel special. They make everyone feel welcome. That is what impresses me so much.
As a guest, you want to feel special. You want to feel like you matter. But at the same time, you will never truly be the person who stays. The people who live here will always be the ones who remain. And that is something I struggle with.
I don’t really like the feeling of becoming a stranger after checking out. Of becoming a person who was briefly part of someone else’s life and then disappears. I am the guest who temporarily enters their world, their environment, their reality — and then leaves again. And that is something I find so fascinating about everyone working in hostels, hosting group tours and everyone who works in this industry, dealing with that.
Obrigada brasil
I am taking so much from this. Rio, you've given me so many beautiful moments, amazing friends, unforgettable experiences, and valuable lessons.
It's always a challenge to travel to a new country—to step into a completely unfamiliar environment surrounded by people you've never met before.
Do it. Push yourself, if it's truly what you want. Stop worrying about what other people think of you or whether no one else is doing it. Follow your heart.
As simple and cliché as it may sound, that's the biggest lesson I'm taking with me: I'm no longer living up to other people's expectations, only my own.
love, Anni